Searching for Christmas
And apologising for being English
I feel lucky to reach mainland Europe in an hour on the Eurostar, and straight to Brussels in two. Then, just another hour out on trains that run on time, and you are in historic Bruges. It’s a beautiful city, and I felt the need for a Christmas excursion to get that warm glow, that feeling of excitement and wonder only a Christmas Market in Europe can bring, that real spirit of Christmas – commercialism.
I know, but I love shopping for gifts for other people; it brings me joy, and as I get older, I’m less into the whole season. Sending gifts, homemade or otherwise, still brings me enjoyment. That and amazing food and drinks, something that is abundant in Bruges – so many lovely cheeses ( Sadly the day before I left, the UK stopped the import of meats and dairy due to an outbreak of foot and mouth, I may have cried a little walking about the food stalls, sampling some of the best cheese I’ve had in ages, knowing none were coming home for Christmas with me) and beer so many beers. I love a good ale - and there are so many to choose from, albeit at a much higher strength than I drink at home; but when in Rome or Bruges, it’s rude not to have a beer brewed by Trappist monks at their abbeys, even if they are 10% vol. (Normally the ones at home are about 4%.)
Rather than a long day, I decided to arrive in Bruges for the evening and spend the night. I love cities at night; it’s normally the best time to experience them, with fewer crowds and a more peaceful atmosphere. Bruges felt safe, and many shops were still open, including the Christmas market til late, to grab a beer and a Bratwurst. Bruges’ history dates to the Romans, and many of the medieval buildings are still standing to marvel at - even the hotel I stayed in was a 16th-century mansion once used by nobles.
The town is beautiful, full of Christmas trees, lights and history (just a shame it wasn’t snowing as that would have made it perfect), but sitting by the canal watching people stroll by and soaking up the atmosphere was bliss, until I tried to order and got told “we speak Flemish, not French.” So, my first apology for being “stupid English” and trying to remember the right words for thank you. I was confused, as the last time I was in Belgium, people were speaking French to me. Indeed, as I learnt on this trip, it’s a unique place as schools teach Flemish, French, and German. I should point out that most people in Bruges speak perfect English, but I like to try to speak the native language of any place I go (except for Czech; I’m sorry, I tried when I was in Prague, but I couldn’t get the words right, sorry.)
Anyway, the next day I was up early and out to buy chocolate (oh yes, I forgot it’s not just cheese and beer – it’s the most delicious chocolate too and not on the restrictions)
I wandered into several stores and tried Flemish, but the shopkeepers spoke to me in French, then asked, “English?”
“Yes, sorry.”
It’s an odd thing, I don’t know why I felt the need to apologise all the time, but lately (and especially watching the football away fans that had turned up stumble through the place), it felt even more important to do so, even if I kept messing up the correct language. Still, I’ll be brushing up on my languages next time I’m over, searching for that Christmas feeling.
For now, I’m back home and drying oranges in the hope these homemade decorations will deter the cats from climbing the tree. Wish me luck!
Thanks for reading. I hope everyone is keeping well and safe and finding their own spirit of the season.
I've been to Asia, but not a single trip to Europe in my life other than some plane stopovers where I couldn't even leave the airport. My dream is to one day see the Northern LIghts, maybe in Finland. Anyway, I loved this story. Thank you.
Thank you for the lovely glimpses of Bruges. My wife and I enjoy seeing Bruges very much for much the same reasons, though we did not go at Christmas time.